It was a bright and sunny Monday mid-afternoon when my grandson Kyle and I boarded the Blue and Gold Ferry that
departed from Pier 41 in San Francisco. The pier is just a short walk from one of San Francisco's popular landmarks -
Fisherman's Wharf. It was summer and the temperature was about 90 degrees F. I only began to feel the cold wind
blowing on my face as the ferry was about midway to Alcatraz. Luckily I came prepared and brought along a jacket
for the 15-minute trip to the island. However, I didn't find a need to put on my jacket when we were already in Alcatraz
since the temperature was just as hot as that at Pier 41. I also brought along my digital camera to take as many
photographs so I could share these with anyone interested.
Immediately upon arrival at Alcatraz, you'll get a brief orientation from a park ranger (warning about the seagulls,
where are the toilets, etc). The National Park Service has a lot of activities to help you learn about Alcatraz Island.
There's a self-guided tour booklet, ranger-led Alcatraz tours, an orientation film, occasional visiting authors of books
about Alcatraz and - best of all - the audio tour.
TAKING THE FERRY TO ALCATRAZ
[ Click on any of the "thumbnail images" below to view the photograph in a larger size format ]
Alcatraz Island is located in the middle of San Francisco Bay in California. From brochures, publications, and
information I gathered during my first and this recent visit, I learned that the island was formerly used as a
military stockade and later as a maximum security prison. The island has been home to bank robbers and murderers,
Confederate sailors, "renegade" Indians and military deserters. Today, the island is a historic site supervised by
the National Park Service as part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and is open to tours.
Alcatraz is listed as a National Historic Landmark. Its name comes from the Spanish word for the gannet, a kind of
seabird. The island is also known as "The Rock," and it was featured in a movie of the same name. The island is home
to the now abandoned prison, the oldest operating lighthouse on the West Coast of the United States, early military
fortifications, and natural features such as rock pools, a seabird colony, and unique views of the coastline.
The island was used a military fort from 1850 to 1933. The United States Disciplinary Barracks on Alcatraz were acquired
by the United States Department of Justice on October 12, 1933. The island became a federal prison on January 1, 1934.
During the 29 years it was in use, the jail held such notable criminals as Al Capone who did time for tax evasion.
Machine Gun Kelly was locked up in Alcatraz for kidnapping and bank robbery. Robert Franklin Stroud, the "Bird man
of Alcatraz" was sent to there for murder. On record, it was Alvin Karpis who served more time at Alcatraz than any
other inmate.
Alcatraz became the end of the line for the worst offenders, criminals who attacked guards or those too famous for
their own good. Alcatraz was also an experiment in isolation. While the government did consider land in Alaska for
a maximum security prison site, the little island in the middle of the cold bay was too perfect and already a military
prison, the very definition of isolation with San Francisco's city lights just out of reach.
Some of the punishment methods endured by prisoners at Alcatraz resemble torture: beatings with iron clubs, isolation,
sensory deprivation, time spent in windy dungeons, bread and water diets. Life on "The Rock" meant hard labor and
terrible conditions. From Alcatraz Prison Rules and Regulations: "You are entitled to food, clothing, shelter, and
medical attention. Anything else you get is a privilege." J.A. Johnston, a former warden of Alcatraz once said,
"To the men confined there, it is not only the ultimate in isolation but the most ironic because they are there in
the midst of the activity of a busy harbor ... all reminding them that life is near but freedom far."
A staff of 90 guards was required to guard the 260 or so prisoners on the island. Many of the guards, about two-thirds
of the staff, lived with their families on the island. Apartment buildings and wood frame houses were built. The
Warden lived in a large house on the island. The elaborate structure that is the prison consists of 330-odd cells.
The penitentiary was closed for good on March 21, 1963. The prison closed because it was far more expensive to operate
than other prisons of the time. It was easier to build a new, traditional land-bound prison than to pay for all the
upkeep and support the Alcatraz prison required. After the prison closed in 1963, the island was unoccupied for 10
years, except for a period from 1969 and 1971 when it was taken over by a group of Native Americans as a political
protest.
In 1969, a group of Native Americans affiliated with the American Indian Movement attempted to reclaim the land,
saying that an 1868 federal treaty allowed Native Americans to use all federal territory that the government was
not actively using. After nearly two years of occupation, the government forced them off.
During the prison's lifetime, only thirty-six attempted to escape. Most were recaptured without incident, seven
were shot and only one is unaccounted for. Three escapees, Frank Morris and brothers John and Clarence Anglin,
disappeared from their cells on June 11, 1962. This attempt, popularized in the motion picture Escape from Alcatraz
was among the most intricate ever devised. Though only some evidence was found that they died in their attempt,
they are officially listed as "missing and presumed drowned." Plywood paddles and parts of a raft made from raincoats
were found on Angel Island by the FBI. It is very likely that they did die in their attempt as, after all these years,
no one has surfaced claiming to be or even to have seen the escapees.
Many of the original prison buildings on the island are gone now. Some burned during the American Indian occupation
in the late 1960s, and the guard's residences were torn down in the early 1970s because they were deteriorated beyond
repair. If you visit the island of Alcatraz today, you will find remnants of the following buildings and structures
shown below.
The only permanent inhabitants are the birds and plants. Alcatraz Island is home to one of the largest western gull
colonies on the west coast. Even on a busy day, the birds outnumber the humans. When the birds are nesting, some
areas are blocked off to protect them. A big colony of birds can also create quite a stink - you may smell it before
the boat reaches the dock.
WHAT WE SAW AT ALCATRAZ
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| Cellhouse |
Warden's House |
Lighthouse |
Water Tower |
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| Military Chapel |
Dock Tower |
Barracks |
Power Plant |
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| Light Industries |
Post Exchange |
Landing Wharf |
Apartment Ruins |
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| Guardhouse & Sally Port |
Mortuary |
Recreation Yard |
Plants & Flowers |
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| Island Birds |
Other Island Photos |
The Cellhouse (See Photo Above) was built by the U.S. Army between 1909 and 1912. It was one of the largest reinforced
concrete structures of its time. The four cellblocks: A, B, C, and D contained 600 cells on three tiers. The main
corridor dividing Cellblocks B and C was dubbed "Broadway" and the open area at the north end of the cellblock that
led into the dining hall was called "Times Square."
The ground floor of "Broadway" contained the least desirable cells. They were colder, had less privacy and were darker
than the other cells. New inmates spent a month in quarantine in "Broadway." Also, White and Black prisoners were segregated
midway down "Broadway," up until the last years of the prison's operation. The two main Cellblocks
were interrupted and this area was called the "cut-off" which permitted guards to pass between the cellblocks and cover
the entire cellhouse more effectively during their scheduled rounds.
D-Block contained forty-two cells and there was an ascending scale of punishment severity, from Isolation to Solitary
to the Strip Cell. Isolation consisted of thirty-six cells, which were identical to those of the regular cell blocks.
Here, the inmates in Isolation remained in the cells twenty-four hours a day. They took their meals there and were
allowed only one 15-minute shower per week and given an hour per week in the recreation yard.
WHAT THE CELLHOUSE IS LIKE
[ Click on any of the "thumbnail images" below to view the photograph in a larger size format ]
The "utility corridor" is a narrow passage bisecting the Cellblocks over their entire length. This corridor served to
bring plumbing, electricity, and ventilation ducts into the cells. These passages provided a route out of the Cellhouse
in what was the most famous and ingenious escape from Alcatraz. It was through the ventilation holes in the back of their
cells that three prisoners slipped into the utility corridor. From there they gained access to the roof of the Cellhouse
from which they made it to the Bay.
The very end of the line was the Strip Cell and there was only one. As with Solitary, the Strip Cell was completely
dark. In addition, there was neither a toilet nor sink, only a hole in the floor and the cell itself was not the only
thing stripped. Prisoners were frequently put in naked, usually as punishment for destruction of their clothes, mattresses,
or blankets. Time in the Strip Cell was generally brief, usually two days.
Be prepared before you go out for an Alcatraz Island tour. There is no food available on the island, and they usually
don't sell it on the boat either, except for snacks, soda, and water. Hungry visitors should eat before they leave
the bay shore or bring food with them. You could easily spend a few hours on Alcatraz, and it won't be much fun if
you're hungry or thirsty. Take care of these primary needs before you go.
When you get your tickets, pay a few extra dollars for the audio tour. It turns an experience that would otherwise
be mere observation into participation and understanding. The cell block transforms in your imagination as you walk
down it and hear what the new convicts heard as they walked in. Guards and former prisoners share their experiences
that bring the empty cells alive. On the tape former correctional officers and inmates describe the day to day
routine, the harsh punishment meted out to troublemakers, and the tension that permeated every aspect of life.
They also talk about some of the most famous prisoners and about the Battle of Alcatraz, one of the most violent
escape attempts.
By the time you finish your tour, you have a real sense of how difficult life must have been, and the thought of
spending more than a few minutes in one of the small bleak cells will almost certainly convince you to keep to the
straight and narrow. After you visit the cellhouse, you can explore the rest of the island. Many of the building
are in ruins and are off limits for safety reasons, but the views from the paths and overlooks are spectacular.
You should allow about two hours to explore the island, and be sure to dress warmly and wear comfortable shoes.
TAKING THE FERRY BACK TO PIER 41
[ Click on any of the "thumbnail images" below to view the photograph in a larger size format ]
Visiting Alcatraz Island can be tiring for some tourists since the trek to the top of the cell house is a whopping
one-quarter of a mile. It may not be a very steep climb, but for the elderly it can be a difficult uphill walk.
Along the way there are places where one can stop to sit and rest. There is, however, a shuttle that operates each
hour to carry old folks and handicapped visitors up the slope.
We spent a good three hours on Alcatraz and tried to explore every nook and cranny that was opened to visitors. I tried to
take all the digital photographs I needed and hopefully what I have portrayed here will give you a good idea of what there
is to see in the island. Alcatraz visitation starts at 9:30 a.m. with departures to the Island every half an hour. In
the summer time the Island closes at 6:30 p.m. and at 4:30 p.m. the rest of the year. The only days Alcatraz Island is
closed are Christmas Day and New Year's Day. The National Park Service strongly advises visitors to get advance ferry
tickets from the Blue & Gold Fleet since tourist volume can be so heavy during the summer months. Tours can sometimes
sell out a week in advance.
junylaputt@yahoo.com

You Are Visitor No.
Since July 30, 2005